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Light

The Light component represents a light fixture (ceiling light, wall sconce, lamp, etc.) in your electrical plan. In Elecplanner, lights automatically illuminate when they receive proper power, providing visual feedback about your circuit’s operation. Lights are passive devices that respond to the electrical state of their connections - they don’t generate power, they only consume it.

Light
  1. Click the Components button in the sidebar
  2. Open the Loads or Lighting category
  3. Find the Light component
  1. Click and hold the Light icon
  2. Drag it onto your canvas
  3. Release to place it at the desired location
  4. The light will appear as an unlit fixture until it receives power

💡 Tip: Place lights where they would actually be located in your room - ceiling center for overhead lights, on walls for sconces, etc. This makes your plan easier to understand.

  1. Click and hold on the light fixture
  2. Drag it to a new location on your canvas
  3. Release to place it
  4. Connected wires will automatically adjust to follow the light
  • Align lights in rows for uniform ceiling lighting
  • Place lights near their controlling switches for clarity
  • Space lights according to real-world lighting design
  • Group lights that share the same circuit or switch

The light has 3 terminals following standard electrical conventions:

  • P (Red terminal) - Phase or “hot” connection
  • Connects to the powered side of your circuit
  • Must be HIGH for the light to turn on
  • Typically comes from a switch or circuit breaker
  • N (Blue terminal) - Neutral connection
  • Completes the electrical circuit
  • Must be LOW for the light to turn on
  • Connects to the neutral bus in your panel
  • Ground (Green terminal) - Protective earth connection
  • Provides safety grounding for metal fixtures
  • Connects to the ground bus in your panel
  • Doesn’t affect light operation, but essential for safety

Light ON conditions:

  • Phase (P) terminal = HIGH
  • Neutral (N) terminal = LOW
  • This creates a potential difference, allowing current to flow
  • The light illuminates with a glowing effect

Light OFF conditions:

  • Phase = LOW, or
  • Neutral = HIGH, or
  • Both are the same state (no potential difference), or
  • Wires are disconnected (FLOATING state)

The light only turns on when there’s proper voltage across P and N terminals!

The most common configuration:

Step-by-step wiring:

  1. Power to Switch:

    • Connect circuit breaker’s L-OUT to switch’s L terminals
    • This brings power to the switch
  2. Switch to Light:

    • Connect switch’s Position 1 terminals to light’s P terminal
    • This is the “switched hot” wire
  3. Neutral Connection:

    • Connect light’s N terminal to electrical panel’s neutral bus
    • Or daisy-chain from another light’s neutral
  4. Ground Connection:

    • Connect light’s Ground terminal to panel ground bus
    • Or daisy-chain from another light’s ground

Result: When switch is in Position 1, light turns on. Position 2, light turns off.

Control several lights with a single switch:

Method 1: Series Wiring

  1. Wire from switch to first light’s P terminal
  2. From first light’s P, wire to second light’s P
  3. Continue to additional lights
  4. Connect all N terminals together in a chain
  5. Connect all Ground terminals together
  6. All lights turn on/off together

Method 2: Parallel Wiring with Junction Box (Recommended)

  1. Wire from switch to a junction box
  2. From junction box, separate wires to each light’s P terminal
  3. Separate neutral wires from panel to each light’s N terminal (via junction box)
  4. All lights share the same switch control
  5. Cleaner, more professional wiring

💡 Best Practice: Use a junction box for multiple lights. It’s easier to troubleshoot and follows professional wiring standards.

Light with Two Switches (Three-Way Circuit)

Section titled “Light with Two Switches (Three-Way Circuit)”

Control a light from two different locations:

  1. First switch connects to power
  2. Traveler wires run between the two switches
  3. Second switch connects to the light
  4. Either switch can turn the light on or off

This is an advanced wiring pattern - see the Switch documentation for details on three-way switching.

  1. Click the Simulate button in the toolbar (or press S)
  2. Your circuit becomes live
  3. Lights that are receiving proper power will illuminate automatically

Light ON:

  • Bright glowing effect around the fixture
  • Indicates P terminal is HIGH and N terminal is LOW
  • Shows that your circuit is wired correctly

Light OFF:

  • Standard appearance, no glow
  • Indicates no power, or incorrect wiring
  • Check your switches and circuit breakers
  1. Toggle switches to see lights respond
  2. Turn circuit breakers off to see lights go dark
  3. Test different switch combinations
  4. Verify all lights in your plan work as expected

💡 Tip: If a light doesn’t turn on in simulation, check: Is the circuit breaker on? Is the switch in the right position? Are all wires connected?

  1. Click on the light to select it
  2. The properties panel appears on the right side of the screen
  3. Or double-click the light to open properties

Currently, the light component has minimal configurable properties:

  • Label - Name the light (e.g., “Kitchen Ceiling”, “Living Room Sconce”)
  • Other - Placeholder for future features

Future versions may include:

  • Wattage/power consumption
  • Light type (incandescent, LED, fluorescent)
  • Dimming capability
  • Color temperature

💡 Labeling: Always label your lights with descriptive names. This makes your electrical plan much easier to understand and maintain.

Circuit Breaker → Switch → Light
→ Neutral Bus → Light N terminal
→ Ground Bus → Light Ground terminal

Result: Simple on/off control from one location

Circuit Breaker → Switch → Junction Box → Light 1
→ Light 2
→ Light 3
All lights share common neutral and ground

Result: All lights turn on/off together

Pattern 3: Multiple Lights, Multiple Switches

Section titled “Pattern 3: Multiple Lights, Multiple Switches”
Circuit Breaker → Switch A → Light A
→ Switch B → Light B
→ Switch C → Light C
All lights share common neutral and ground

Result: Independent control of each light

Circuit Breaker → Switch → Switched Lights (controlled)
→ Direct → Unswitched Lights (always on)
All lights share common neutral and ground

Result: Some lights controlled by switch, others always powered

Living Room:

  • Ceiling light (center)
  • Wall sconces (decorative)
  • Floor lamp outlets (controlled by switch)

Bedroom:

  • Overhead light (switch at door)
  • Bedside reading lights (separate switches)
  • Closet light (door switch)

Kitchen:

  • Ceiling lights (main switch)
  • Under-cabinet lights (separate switch)
  • Over-sink task light (separate switch)

Bathroom:

  • Vanity lights (switch at door)
  • Shower/tub light (same or separate switch)
  • Night light (always on or separate switch)

Hallway:

  • Ceiling lights with three-way switches (both ends)
  • Stairway lighting (three-way or motion sensor)

Outdoor Lighting:

  • Porch lights (inside switch)
  • Landscape lighting (timer or photocell)
  • Security lights (motion sensor)
  • Pathway lights (dusk-to-dawn)

Accent Lighting:

  • Display case lights
  • Picture lights
  • Cove lighting
  • LED strips

Task Lighting:

  • Workshop bench lights
  • Garage workbench lights
  • Office desk lamps
  • Reading nooks

Room Size and Light Quantity:

  • Small room (< 100 sq ft): 1-2 lights
  • Medium room (100-200 sq ft): 2-3 lights
  • Large room (> 200 sq ft): 3+ lights
  • Open concept: Multiple zones with separate controls

Light Placement:

  • Center of room for general lighting
  • Corners for accent lighting
  • Over work areas for task lighting
  • Near seating areas for reading lights

Convenient Locations:

  • Near room entries (both sides for through-rooms)
  • At bedside (for bedroom lights)
  • Top and bottom of stairs
  • Inside and outside of rooms

Multiple Switches:

  • Three-way: Control from two locations
  • Four-way: Control from three or more locations
  • Use for: stairways, hallways, large rooms, master bedrooms

LED vs. Traditional:

  • LED: Low power, long life, cool operation
  • Incandescent: High power, short life, warm light
  • CFL: Medium power, medium life, warm-up time
  • Halogen: High power, bright, hot operation

Control Strategies:

  • Dimmers for adjustable brightness
  • Timers for automatic shutoff
  • Occupancy sensors for automatic on/off
  • Photocells for outdoor lighting

Check Power Source:

  • Is the circuit breaker ON?
  • Is power reaching the switch?
  • Are wires connected from panel to switch?

Check Switch:

  • Is the switch in Position 1?
  • Is the switch wired correctly?
  • Does the switch have power input?

Check Light Wiring:

  • Is Phase (P) terminal connected to switch output?
  • Is Neutral (N) terminal connected to panel neutral?
  • Are both connections complete?

Check Circuit Continuity:

  • Is there a complete path from breaker → switch → light → neutral → panel?
  • Are there any breaks in the wire chain?

Wiring Issue:

  • Phase terminal may be connected directly to power (bypassing switch)
  • Switch may be wired backwards
  • Multiple switches may be creating unintended paths

Solution:

  • Verify Phase terminal connects to switch OUTPUT, not panel directly
  • Check switch wiring matches the intended pattern

Partial Circuit Issue:

  • Some lights may not be connected to the switch
  • Wires may be connected to wrong terminals
  • Series wiring may have a break

Solution:

  • Check each light’s P and N terminals are connected
  • Verify all lights are on the same circuit path
  • Trace wires from switch to each light

In Simulation:

  • This shouldn’t happen in Elecplanner - lights are either fully on or fully off
  • If behavior seems wrong, check your wiring logic

In Real Life:

  • Loose connections
  • Incompatible dimmer
  • Failing fixture
  • Voltage fluctuations
  1. Map natural light: Plan artificial lighting to complement windows
  2. Layer lighting: Combine ambient, task, and accent lighting
  3. Consider use cases: Different activities need different lighting
  4. Plan for flexibility: Use multiple switches for different scenarios
  5. Think maintenance: Place fixtures where bulbs can be easily changed
  1. Use junction boxes: For multiple lights or complex wiring
  2. Label everything: Mark which switch controls which light
  3. Color coding: Use consistent wire colors (hot, neutral, ground)
  4. Wire sizing: Match wire gauge to circuit amperage (typically 14 AWG for 15A)
  5. Proper grounding: Always connect ground wires, especially for metal fixtures
  1. Group by room: All lights in one room on one circuit (when possible)
  2. Separate critical paths: Don’t put all house lights on one circuit
  3. Balance loads: Distribute lights across multiple circuits
  4. Plan capacity: Don’t exceed 80% of circuit breaker rating
  5. Future expansion: Leave capacity for additional lights

⚠️ Important: This documentation is for planning in Elecplanner. For actual electrical installations:

  • Always hire a licensed electrician
  • Follow all local electrical codes
  • Obtain proper permits and inspections
  • Turn off power before working on circuits
  • Test circuits before touching any wires
  • Weight limits: Ensure ceiling boxes can support fixture weight
  • Damp/wet ratings: Use appropriate fixtures for bathrooms and outdoors
  • Enclosed fixtures: Check that bulbs are rated for enclosed fixtures
  • Recessed lights: Maintain proper clearance from insulation
  • Touch temperature: Ensure fixtures don’t exceed safe touch temperatures
  • Proper grounding: Metal fixtures must be grounded
  • Wire capacity: Don’t exceed wire amperage ratings
  • Bulb wattage: Don’t exceed fixture’s maximum bulb wattage
  • GFCI protection: Use in bathrooms, outdoors, and wet locations
  • Circuit separation: Keep lighting circuits separate from high-load appliances

💡 Quick Tip: When planning room lighting, start with the switch location (where you’d naturally reach when entering), then work backwards to the light fixture and circuit breaker. This creates a natural, logical wiring layout!